There is no better way to appreciate a photo than a native resolution print on top quality paper in good lighting, but thanks to the digital revolution 99% of photos are now viewed on electronic displays. From computers, to cellphones to tablets…the primary viewing platform is low resolution images on electronic screens. So getting an image to look it’s very best at such low resolutions is crucial to the impression that your photography will make on viewers. While there are many little tricks and tips to web sharpening, the theory is quite simple and easy to experiment with so you can program your own actions.
To obtain the ideal sharpness at a low resolution, you have to sharpen the image multiple times at larger resolutions. There are so many variables that come into play here regarding which methods to use, how many times to sharpen and at which various resolutions to sharpen that I don’t think any two photographers use the exact same method. The problem with this method is that it robs the image slightly of color and you have to do something to replace it afterwards. While 99% of people are probably just going to download the action and not even look at the steps, I know there’s a few nerds out there that will appreciate the detail and use it to write their own actions suited to their photography and workflow. This is for you guys!
Throughout the action I only use the unsharp mask sharpening function, varying only the sharpening amount while keeping the pixel radius and threshold constant. The first sharpening is done on the original layer, then step two and three is done on a duplicate layer for final adjustment. I learned the automate resize trick from Philip Perold. It allows you to tell the action to make the longest side of the image a specified size, so you don’t need separate actions for portrait and landscape images. I’m only explaining the 900px example, but the action has a 720px, 900px and 1024px action in it.
Sharpening to 900px
- Filter – Sharpen – Unsharp Mask ( amount 150, radius 0.5, threshold 0 )
- File – Automate – Fit Image (width 2300, height 2300 )
- Duplicate Layer ( CTRL + J | APPLE + J )
- Filter – Sharpen – Unsharp Mask (amount 150, radius 0.5, threshold 0 )
- File – Automage – Fit Image ( width 1500px, height 1500px )
- Filter – Sharpen – Unsharp Mask ( amount 80, radius 0.5, threshold 0 )
- File – Automate – Fit Image ( width 900px, height 900px )
- Image – Adjustments – Selective color – select neutrals – adjust blacks to +5
- Duplicate layer
- Image – Adjustments – Hue/Saturation ( saturation 10 )
Highlight Diffusion
I think that everyone reading this blog probably knows the work of Marc Adamus. His processing of images has astounded landscape photographers for many years now and no one can put a finger on what exactly makes it so special (apart from mindblowing composition and light). Myself and another photographer noticed that the bright highlights in his photos are often very fuzzy and we did quite a bit of experimenting to try and imitate it. What we came up with is using luminosity selections to get a selection of the highlights and then blowing it using two methods. The selection I use is [basic lights] – [super lights] so that the very right side of the histogram isn’t blown too much when applying this diffusion. Once you’ve got the selection, create a layer of it and set it to color dodge. This makes the selection a lot brighter and more colorful. Then apply a guassian blur to the selection of 2-4 pixels, which will make it very soft. You can now adjust this layer to a low opacity (10-20%) and it will give that soft diffusion to the highlights in the image
Feel free to make suggestions and I’ll build it into the action if I think you’ve got something worthy to add!
Download Action
Right click me and select “save as”

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Very good job Hougaard, I have few questions though.
Is it me or you’ve linked the wrong action file ? It’s your contrast action from a previous post that I get.
Alex Nail also shares an action set for web sharpening and I’m sure you analysed it. He explains that “The image is resized to 1.66 times the desired output size. This is a critical step, for some reason 1.66 seems to work better than any other ratio!”. In your case 900*1.66=1494px but you resize to 1500px in your last step, so it’s not the exact ratio, do you have a good reason to do so ? (well I doubt one could see the difference between the two but you asked for nerdy things, here you are).
One last question is your highlight diffusion trick also relevant for print ?
Thank you very much.
Comment by Pierre-Marie — January 18, 2012 @ 8:38 pm
What about an edge mask…for them halos?
Comment by Philip Perold — January 18, 2012 @ 9:30 pm
[...] article had the wrong download link for the action, but I have fixed it. I apologize for the wasted 6kb of [...]
Pingback by Download Link Fixed « Hougaard Malan Photography Blog — January 19, 2012 @ 2:03 pm
Thanks for the tutorial – very helpful. Steve
Comment by Steve Hartwig — February 3, 2012 @ 12:24 pm
Hi, lovely work!
I loaded your actions and Alex’s actions; only 32 bit?
Can’t have everything!
Comment by Jay Gould — February 25, 2012 @ 5:27 pm
Thanks for the tutorial – learned a lot. When I started with CS3, I bought a book from Scott Kelby to point me in the right direction. Lab color sharpening was recommended in the book as a way to prevent color halos and other color problems. Any thoughts on this – will color loss be prevented by incorporating sharpening in the Lab color mode on the lightness channel?
Comment by Jaco Linde — May 23, 2012 @ 6:19 pm
Thanks, Hougaard for all the other tutorials as well. Also for the other actions provided during our March 2012 Namibia workshop. Still using it with great effect. Very successful with my camera club photos and salons photos using your actions and tips – already received several salon acceptances nationally and internationally
Comment by Willem — June 15, 2012 @ 8:24 am
Thank you, Hougaard! But I have a problem with the highlight diffusion: I wanted that nice soft diffusion to the highlights but when I exactly follow your steps, nothing changes in the picture. I tried it with several pictures.
What am I doing wrong?
Comment by Philipp — July 25, 2012 @ 6:55 pm